More of Stage and Post Visit

Sundays:

            Sunday is our only day off during training. It’s a day to relax and catch up on the things that didn’t get done during the week, much like in the United States.  I’m enjoying my Sundays more and more here. It’s quiet (usually), stores are closed (meaning less to do and more time to relax = very nice). I can exercise, do laundry, sleep in, go to the cyber café (one of the places that is open), write in my journal, and read.

Another good thing about Sundays takes place at my host family.  They clean the entire house; the bathroom, floors, all of the clothes, outside surfaces, everything! 

Ramadan:

            From August 1^st to August 30^th is Ramadan, the Islamic period of fasting and prayer.  Since my host family is Muslim this means getting up around 4AM, praying, and eating breakfast. Afterwards they usually go back to sleep for a couple more hours. Then they fast all day until 7PM.  Since prayers are more important during this time, people in the neighborhood prayer together.  For the evening prayers, there are usually a group of people praying either outside of my house or in the garage on mats.  It is led by an Imam I think and lasts about thirty minutes.  I’ve joined them a few times, but it’s hard to follow when you don’t understand Arabic! They let me borrow a shawl to wear and showed me how to wash myself before prayer.  I think the general order of the service begins with a round of prayers repeated multiple times and then a reciting from a section of the Koran . Then the prayers are repeated again and another section is spoken. These are just my observations and educated guesses! The fête for Ramadan (celebration) is on August 30th, so everyone is busy getting everything ready. No matter what fête you are celebrating here, everyone that comes wears the same tissue (material), which means the tailors are very busy.  

August 23^rd, 2011

Some exciting events have taken place over the last few days. We had our third language interview to assess our progress, and I moved up another level. The days leading up to the interview included a lot of studying and tutoring to prepare. I also began learning my local language-Adja. It was a nice break from French and fun to learn words in a language I have never heard before. During our technical training, we learned how to make “bouille enrichie” or enriched porridge. Bouille is a common meal or snack here that you can find on every street. It is usually made with corn flour and water, served hot with sugar and maybe a fried beignet or too. It can also be made with ground millet.  Since women already know how to make it, it is a fun and easy activity to do with a group. The goal is to show women how to make it a balanced meal by adding other foods to the porridge such as soy flour, a mixture of grains (sorghum, millet, corn),  fruit (bananas, mangoes), and more protein (peanut butter, dried fish powder, moringa powder, milk). Enriching the porridge is especially important for infants in the weaning process or for those children who aren’t breastfeeding anymore.  

            We also got to practice baby weighing in a village outside of Porto Novo.  It usually takes place at a health center once a month, maybe on the same day as vaccinations.  Mothers bring their infants, ages birth to about 24 months old along with their health records.  We held the session outside under a tree. We tied a scale to a swing type apparatus which was hung from a tree branch.  As it was our first time doing it, we practiced weighing in pairs. One person called the names and held the baby while the other recorded the weight and charted it. The chart makes it very easy to identify babies in the normal or malnourished weight-for-age range.  All of the babies were adorable and only one decide to pee in the seat J. The mothers were helpful in undressing the babies and keeping them calm.  

Baby Weighing

            In other news, we got to go on our first field trip outside of Porto Novo.  We visited Ouidah, on the coast of Benin.  It’s a popular spot to visit because of the slave trade history and voodoo culture. We saw the Portuguese fort (one of five different countries forts) and learned about the slave trade.  They also explained how West African religion and customs were spread to places such as Haiti, Brazil, and Cuba.  Later, we visited a sacred forest (voodoo) and a python temple.  Pythons are considered sacred here, so there is a temple where they live and are taken care of. The story goes that a woman once picked up a python and it didn’t bite her. When the enemies saw her holding a snake they thought she had special powers and they ran away.  Visitors are allowed to hold the snakes and take pictures with them. Although I am not a snake person whatsoever, I couldn’t miss the opportunity to take a picture with a python! None of them were very big and they really were beautiful. After lunch we saw places with memorials that were significant during the slave trade.  For example, we saw the place where slaves were held while they were waiting for the ships to arrive, and mass graves.  Supposedly Ouidah was the biggest port in West Africa and slaves had to walk there from all over the region. There is a large archway in front of the ocean symbolizing the port of no return. The beach was beautiful and the temperature of the water was perfect! It was a nice day away from the city and the beach reminded me of home.  

The Port of No Return, Ouidah

August 22-27 Counterpart Workshop and Post Visit!

On August 5^th, all of the trainees received their post announcements. This was a very exciting event and they made it special by calling the names of volunteers in each region to come forward.  Even though we don’t know that much about the country yet, we had all some preferences as to which part of the country we wanted to live in.  I was placed in the south-west part of Benin, right next to Togo.  After the announcements, we couldn’t wait to go and visit, but of course we had to continue on with training and wait a few more weeks.  When the time finally came, we had a two-day workshop with our homologues (work partners or counterparts). After everyone met theirs and got to know each other a little there were various sessions. Some topics included the role of volunteers and of homologues, what the Peace Corps is all about, cultural differences between the United States and Benin, and what we have learned in training so far. The goal was to make sure the work partners understood what the volunteer can do for them and how to they can work together.  We also planned our three-day visits to our posts together.

My host structure is a Centre Promotion Sociale (CPS) or Social Promotion Center. They are located in every town, just like the health centers. They work with people dealing with domestic violence, neglect, physical handicaps, malnutrition, HIV/AIDS, orphans and widows, and a host of other reasons. My homologue works there as an assistant jurist. He assists people dealing with domestic violence or neglect.  He talks with the family to try to solve the problem and explains what the law states. If they do not comply, he can send them to court.  Other activities that the center does are information sessions for the public on topics such as disease prevention, breastfeeding, weaning, nutrition, hygiene and HIV/AIDS. 

         After the counterpart conference was over, we all departed for our posts with our counterparts.  We shared a taxi with other volunteers and counterparts going to the same part of the country.  There are seven of us volunteers in the same region (Mono-Couffo departments).  It will be nice to have other people close by to go and visit.  The highway we take is the same one that one takes to go to Cotonou and Ouidah.  We arrived in the town where my homologue lives in the afternoon of that day.  He lives right across the street from the taxi-gare (station) and right in amongst the international market that takes place there every five days.  My house is located in the village only 2.5 km away.  I got to stay in an apartment in his concession by myself. It was unfurnished but it had 3 rooms, a space to shower out back and electricity.  Additionally, he has the cutest family! His wife is very kind and welcoming and his two daughters (ages 6 and 2) are very sweet. Whenever I needed to take a shower, my homologue would bring me a bucket with water.  It was nice to shower outside, especially after a hot day and with a breeze.  For breakfast every morning, we ate at a road-side place that serves hot tea, coffee, and hot chocolate, with baguettes and omelets.

            One the day I arrived, I was able to relax a little in the afternoon before starting to get a tour of the area. Then we visited the CPS (Centre Promotion Sociale) where I will be spending a lot of time! Right now, they are in the midst of moving offices to a brand new, much bigger building that is right around the corner.  I got to meet my supervisor (the head of the center) and another staff member (there are five total).  The new office is right across the street from where my supervisor lives, which is in the center of town.  There are many official buildings in this area including the mayor’s office, post office, and the brigade, all surrounding a park. 

            The next day we visited the mayor (he was too busy to talk to us that day but we said hi), the brigade territorial, the police and the compagnie gendarmerie.  At each place, my homologue would introduce me and explain why I was there.  Everyone was professional and made me feel welcome.  The commandant of the brigade even invited us over to his house for lunch. Later that day, we saw my future house.  It is right off of the paved road that goes toward the town where my homologue lives.  It’s in a walled-concession amongst a line of connected apartments. They each have a small porch in front, two rooms, and a space in the back for cooking and showering.  Right across from those is another row of apartments which includes the house where the landlord lives.  Out of a row of three or four latrines, I picked the one that I will be using and putting a lock on to make sure I’m the only one to use it.  Everyone that lives there gets water from a spigot inside the concession. I will have to pay the landlord for electricity and water use.  There is a mango tree in the center and a papaya tree on the side.  Also, there are three gendarmes (policemen) living there too, so I should be safe!  There was a Peace Corps volunteer that lived in the same town as my homologue who left earlier this year. They left a few pieces of furniture for me to use such as a bed, couch, table, and chairs. 

            The next day I saw the marché (market) where one can find just about anything one would need.  The area is very agricultural, so a lot is grown there.  In addition, people come there from other regions and countries such as Nigeria and Togo.  Next we visited another brigade (brigade de recherches). We returned to the CPS for a good part of the day because my homologue had to see two different families.  In the afternoon I got to see one of the health centers in a village.  It’s supposedly a very nice one and many people prefer to go there for treatment.  They have a lab, consultation room, ultrasound, pharmacy, and maternity hospital.  They also have a nice gazebo-type structure that can be used for information sessions. Afterwards, we drove to a nearby village just to get a quick look because I will be working with many of the surrounding villages.  Each village has a women’s group that the CPS works with. 

            The last day I was there, I met the Chef d’Arrondissement, which is also very close to the CPS.  The chef was very nice and said he looked forward to working with me.  Then I got to see the supermarché in town.  Supermarchés are a lot like supermarkets except that they are very small and they carry more European-style foods and products.  It has a lot of different foods, some of which you can’t find in the marché, so it will be nice to have when I’m craving something like yogurt or corn flakes! 

            The area is gorgeous with trees, fields, and greenery as far as one can see. Along the road you can see lots of papaya, orange, and eucalyptus trees as well as corn and manioc growing.  The people are very friendly and everything is pretty close by.  The town next to mine is pretty well built up, but it doesn’t have a city feel.  My homologue was very accommodating and patient with my French.  Before he was the assistant jurist, he worked at a secondary school teaching French for ten years.  I think this will work in my favor!  I think we are going to work well together.  

My Commune!

           There are about three weeks left of stage (training) left until we get to move officially to our posts. Until that time, we will continue learning French and/or our local languages as well as technical information (like my sector, health).  I am excited to finish training and start my two years at post!

Life with the host family (famille d’accueil) and other tidbits:

Chez ma famille d'acceuil

 I am living with a family with four kids under age 11, a mama and a papa. There are also a few girls and a young woman who help around the house.  I have my own room, and the house has electricity and some running water (one spout in the shower, plus a shower head).  Only my brother and father speak French well, so I can practice with them, but I also communicate in French a little with my other siblings and mama.  The other languages they speak are local such as Gun and Yoruba, and probably Fon too.  My mama commutes to Cotonou 6 days a week and sells kitchen  wares at the biggest market in West Africa (I am  told.)  I got to visit this past weekend with my cousin and brother.  It was a Sunday so it was pretty much empty compared to a normal day there.  At the markets (marchés) you can find just about anything; packaged food, produce, meat and fish, hot prepared food, live animals, housewares, electronics, clothes, and all sorts of little interesting things. 

The good thing about having lots of siblings is the help they offer you and the company they can provide. When I first arrived, they showed me how to wash my hands without running water, wash my clothes, light my gas stove, and where to put my trash.  When I get home after classes, I am greeted by shouts and hugs and immediate demands for my backpack and helmet so they can carry it inside for me.  They also are very protective of me when we are walking around the quartier.  The hold my hand and tell me to be careful while walking (yes, like a child- but a respected child).  We go and buy snacks sold along the street or pick up fish for dinner.  Sometimes we just take a promenade around and say hi to people (with no shortage of yovo -“foreigner” in Fon shouts.)  On the other hand, everything I do or carry is a sign to my siblings to come and watch me or look at what I am carrying.  I’ve had to set some boundaries and my room is pretty much off limits now.  

My street in Porto Novo

 Besides the traveling from Cotonou to Porto Novo, I visited two current volunteers (married) about two weeks ago with two other stagiers.  We took a taxi about 3 hours north to one of the large cities and got to learn what their lives are like as volunteers. It was interesting to hear what they have done so far, see their daily routine and tasks, and ask them questions about volunteer life. 

The weather the past few days has been wonderful. Only intermittent rain, partly sunny, breezy, and cool most days. The sun does peak out now and then and it gets pretty warm, but then the clouds come back and give us a break. I don’t think it could get any better for Benin. 

The most common word I hear on the street or with my family, besides yovo, is doucement.  It means carefully or sweetly and it’s used any time I am walking on an uneven path, carrying something, or doing pretty much  any action.  Doucement along with other French words, I am told have different meanings and uses in Africa than in France.  I think it’s a polite term, but they must think that foreigners aren’t as able to look out for themselves or do things carefully.  It’s also the word you use if your zemijdan (moto) or taxi driver is driving too fast.  Speaking of zemis, they are actually quite fun to ride on.  With our huge moto helmets, we can take zemis anywhere in the city for very little money.  Each region or city has a different color shirt that the drivers wear with a number painted on the back to identify them.  You just shout “kaykay no!” to one and they will pull over.  After it rains, the drivers have to maneuver their way around puddles, mud, and uneven terrain, but the passenger just has to enjoy the ride.  It was intimidating at first trying to wave one down and discouter la prix, but now it’s no problem.  I just have to enunciate where I want to go very carefully and make sure I’m not getting overcharged before I hop on. For hopping on, there is a technique for women wearing dresses or skirts while getting on the bike to be modest.  Right now, it’s so much easier to just wear pants.  You have to discuss the price for just about everything here, even if the price is fixed because venders will try to overcharge you if you are a foreigner. I’ve got all of the bartering phrases down now- it’s a survival skill here!  

To get to school each day for training, I can walk, take a zemi, or ride my bike. I recently discovered a much easier and faster way to get home and now it’s my preferred method.  At first, riding my bike was very intimidating because I wasn’t sure of the way, the unpaved side streets are hard to ride on, and the major roads are busy.  It’s nice to ride with a couple other people just in case something happens.  We have had some training on how to repair our bikes, since we probably will not be posted close to a place that knows about mountain bikes.  We got to practice fixing a tire, lubricating the chain, and fixing the brakes.         

In terms of French learning, we took it pretty slow at the beginning.  We had to be placed into language groups according to our levels with about 2 other stagiers (trainees) and a professor.  After 3 weeks we had another language interview and rearranged the groups.  Supposedly, I made it to the intermediate high level, which is what is needed to swear in as a volunteer in September.  I’m not sure how that happened, but I’m continuing to try a practice whenever I can.  I think my listening skills are better than my speaking skills, but any progress is progress, right?  In the classroom we review grammar, discuss various topics, and practice dialogues. We also practice speaking in the community and watch films in French. 

Along with the French training, we are also receiving cultural training. We talk about everything from what kinds of things are sold at the market, to gender roles, dress, religion, taboos, and cultural norms.

This week we started technical training. There are four sectors of volunteers in Benin; health, community economic development, environmental action, and teaching English as a foreign language.  Every sector has lectures each week specific to their assignments.  Right now we are getting familiar with the health system, what services are available, and the types of illnesses and issues Benin is facing.  We visited a social promotion center and a health center.  The health center had a maternité for expecting and delivering mothers, a dispensaire where they give weekly vaccinations and care for sick people, and a pharmacie. I am excited to learn more about the types of projects I will have the opportunity to work on with my community! 

Since I am been here I have had two outfits made by a couturiére (tailor for women).  When I asked my mama if I could have a dress or a skirt made she sent me over to the shop to look at model designs. They have tailors on every street, along with hair dressers. Then that night the couturiére came to our house, took my measurements and I attempted to explain what I wanted.  My family already had some tissu (cloth) that I liked well enough. I got one dress and one modéle (blouse with skirt) made.  I also bought two pieces of tissu that will be used as pagnes (wrap around skirts).  I just need to get them hemmed and have a cord added so I can tie them.  Getting clothing made and tailored is not expensive here, and it’s fun to pick out different designs.  If you don’t like the modéles on the posters, you can draw what you want and try to explain it to the tailor.  It’s also a great way to try and fit in with everyone else! 

So far my favorite foods in Benin are papaya, pineapple, Fanmilk (a frozen ice cream-like treat), avocado sandwiches, beans, fried plantains, pâte rouge (made with corn flour and a tomato base), salad with cucumbers, carrots, tomatoes, and avocado, and igname pilée (pounded yams served with a spicy peanut sauce and wagashi- a cheese made in the north of Benin).  I also eat a lot of eggs, rice, bananas, baguettes, and pasta.  My family is pretty good about not making my food with a lot of hot peppers, but sometimes a lot of water is needed to stand it!

I think it’s amazing how fast you get accustomed to your surroundings.  I can’t believe I’ve only been here for almost four weeks!  The whole experience so far has been an adventure with lots of interesting detours along the way. They have all contributed to my progress in getting accustomed to life in Benin.  I feel the slow but steady progress I am making and can’t wait until I am ready to do it all on my own at post (where I will be placed for two years.)

Some observations so far:

·        
So many things are plus petite here than in the states. For example, cows are short and petite; pigs, chickens, and sheep are also smaller.  Even the vegetables are petite.  They use petite hot peppers in just about every meal. 
Along with that, there are small potatoes, small bananas, small apples, and small pineapples. Everything is small and cute here! Perfect when you are just buying for one!

·         It’s humbling to have a 5 year old help you wash your clothes and your dishes.

·         
One must eat only with the right hand here (I’m left-handed so this took some practice). Eating with your right hand is not as bad as it sounds. However, it’s hard for anyone to use your hand when eating really hot food with no utensils (such as pâte).

·       
  Expressions such as “Tu es lá?” (Are you there?), “Tu as fait un peu?” (Have you done a little?) and “Bonne assis!” (good sitting!) make me laugh, but they are used all of the time. They are direct translations from local language into French, so at first they don’t seem to make much sense.

·       
  I haven’t had to use a latrine yet! (Let’s see how long that will last.)

·        
Riding a zemidjan is fun despite the small number of paved roads in Benin.

·        
The palm tree has many uses (palm fruit, palm oil, leaves to make broom, fans, and mats, and one part is used as flint to start fires)

·          
They like to name their stores and boutiques with religious phrases such as Alpha and Omega, Glory to God, God is good, Grace, or my favorite so far Bravo Jesus (all in French) and then the type of store it is such as a hair dresser or cafeteria.  

I have hopefully given a general overview of what life is like so far in Benin and there is much more to come. I hope everyone at home is doing well and enjoying summer!  Peace!

What Just Happened?

Hello Friends and Family!

I left for Benin via Philadelphia on June 29th. I finally arrived on July 2nd.  As you can imagine this was a long journey and I am still adjusting to the time difference.  We are all staying at the same compound for the first week and will be splitting up into host families soon. There are 54 of us trainees. We all met up in Philadelphia for “staging” which included getting a yellow fever vaccine, meeting each other, and getting familiar with the Peace Corps and various policies (again).  It was nice to be back in good old PA!  During our travel here, I kept reminding myself “Je vais au Benin” (I am going to Benin).  It was hard to believe it was actually happening, plus I was so tired and therefore probably a little delirious.

We’ve mostly been busying ourselves with paperwork, lectures, interviews and demonstrations each day. We have so much to learn!  We’ve picked out our mountain bikes and practiced riding the moto bikes as well. 
        
It’s rainy season here right now, which means it’s humid, pretty warm, and rains every so often.  They are slowly getting us accustomed to the food here, so we’ve been eating European-style food mostly.  Baguettes at every meal, pasta, salad Niçoise, oranges, apples, bananas, and various cooked vegetables (plus beef, fish, and hot dogs for the meat eaters.)  Everyone we’ve met so far has been welcoming, patient with us, and glad to see us.

I've really appreciated your prayers and kind words these past few months while I've been preparing. It is so nice to know people are rooting for me! From now on it will be intensive French training just about every day. Wish me luck!