Life with the host family (famille d’accueil) and other tidbits:

Chez ma famille d'acceuil

 I am living with a family with four kids under age 11, a mama and a papa. There are also a few girls and a young woman who help around the house.  I have my own room, and the house has electricity and some running water (one spout in the shower, plus a shower head).  Only my brother and father speak French well, so I can practice with them, but I also communicate in French a little with my other siblings and mama.  The other languages they speak are local such as Gun and Yoruba, and probably Fon too.  My mama commutes to Cotonou 6 days a week and sells kitchen  wares at the biggest market in West Africa (I am  told.)  I got to visit this past weekend with my cousin and brother.  It was a Sunday so it was pretty much empty compared to a normal day there.  At the markets (marchés) you can find just about anything; packaged food, produce, meat and fish, hot prepared food, live animals, housewares, electronics, clothes, and all sorts of little interesting things. 

The good thing about having lots of siblings is the help they offer you and the company they can provide. When I first arrived, they showed me how to wash my hands without running water, wash my clothes, light my gas stove, and where to put my trash.  When I get home after classes, I am greeted by shouts and hugs and immediate demands for my backpack and helmet so they can carry it inside for me.  They also are very protective of me when we are walking around the quartier.  The hold my hand and tell me to be careful while walking (yes, like a child- but a respected child).  We go and buy snacks sold along the street or pick up fish for dinner.  Sometimes we just take a promenade around and say hi to people (with no shortage of yovo -“foreigner” in Fon shouts.)  On the other hand, everything I do or carry is a sign to my siblings to come and watch me or look at what I am carrying.  I’ve had to set some boundaries and my room is pretty much off limits now.  

My street in Porto Novo

 Besides the traveling from Cotonou to Porto Novo, I visited two current volunteers (married) about two weeks ago with two other stagiers.  We took a taxi about 3 hours north to one of the large cities and got to learn what their lives are like as volunteers. It was interesting to hear what they have done so far, see their daily routine and tasks, and ask them questions about volunteer life. 

The weather the past few days has been wonderful. Only intermittent rain, partly sunny, breezy, and cool most days. The sun does peak out now and then and it gets pretty warm, but then the clouds come back and give us a break. I don’t think it could get any better for Benin. 

The most common word I hear on the street or with my family, besides yovo, is doucement.  It means carefully or sweetly and it’s used any time I am walking on an uneven path, carrying something, or doing pretty much  any action.  Doucement along with other French words, I am told have different meanings and uses in Africa than in France.  I think it’s a polite term, but they must think that foreigners aren’t as able to look out for themselves or do things carefully.  It’s also the word you use if your zemijdan (moto) or taxi driver is driving too fast.  Speaking of zemis, they are actually quite fun to ride on.  With our huge moto helmets, we can take zemis anywhere in the city for very little money.  Each region or city has a different color shirt that the drivers wear with a number painted on the back to identify them.  You just shout “kaykay no!” to one and they will pull over.  After it rains, the drivers have to maneuver their way around puddles, mud, and uneven terrain, but the passenger just has to enjoy the ride.  It was intimidating at first trying to wave one down and discouter la prix, but now it’s no problem.  I just have to enunciate where I want to go very carefully and make sure I’m not getting overcharged before I hop on. For hopping on, there is a technique for women wearing dresses or skirts while getting on the bike to be modest.  Right now, it’s so much easier to just wear pants.  You have to discuss the price for just about everything here, even if the price is fixed because venders will try to overcharge you if you are a foreigner. I’ve got all of the bartering phrases down now- it’s a survival skill here!  

To get to school each day for training, I can walk, take a zemi, or ride my bike. I recently discovered a much easier and faster way to get home and now it’s my preferred method.  At first, riding my bike was very intimidating because I wasn’t sure of the way, the unpaved side streets are hard to ride on, and the major roads are busy.  It’s nice to ride with a couple other people just in case something happens.  We have had some training on how to repair our bikes, since we probably will not be posted close to a place that knows about mountain bikes.  We got to practice fixing a tire, lubricating the chain, and fixing the brakes.         

In terms of French learning, we took it pretty slow at the beginning.  We had to be placed into language groups according to our levels with about 2 other stagiers (trainees) and a professor.  After 3 weeks we had another language interview and rearranged the groups.  Supposedly, I made it to the intermediate high level, which is what is needed to swear in as a volunteer in September.  I’m not sure how that happened, but I’m continuing to try a practice whenever I can.  I think my listening skills are better than my speaking skills, but any progress is progress, right?  In the classroom we review grammar, discuss various topics, and practice dialogues. We also practice speaking in the community and watch films in French. 

Along with the French training, we are also receiving cultural training. We talk about everything from what kinds of things are sold at the market, to gender roles, dress, religion, taboos, and cultural norms.

This week we started technical training. There are four sectors of volunteers in Benin; health, community economic development, environmental action, and teaching English as a foreign language.  Every sector has lectures each week specific to their assignments.  Right now we are getting familiar with the health system, what services are available, and the types of illnesses and issues Benin is facing.  We visited a social promotion center and a health center.  The health center had a maternité for expecting and delivering mothers, a dispensaire where they give weekly vaccinations and care for sick people, and a pharmacie. I am excited to learn more about the types of projects I will have the opportunity to work on with my community! 

Since I am been here I have had two outfits made by a couturiére (tailor for women).  When I asked my mama if I could have a dress or a skirt made she sent me over to the shop to look at model designs. They have tailors on every street, along with hair dressers. Then that night the couturiére came to our house, took my measurements and I attempted to explain what I wanted.  My family already had some tissu (cloth) that I liked well enough. I got one dress and one modéle (blouse with skirt) made.  I also bought two pieces of tissu that will be used as pagnes (wrap around skirts).  I just need to get them hemmed and have a cord added so I can tie them.  Getting clothing made and tailored is not expensive here, and it’s fun to pick out different designs.  If you don’t like the modéles on the posters, you can draw what you want and try to explain it to the tailor.  It’s also a great way to try and fit in with everyone else! 

So far my favorite foods in Benin are papaya, pineapple, Fanmilk (a frozen ice cream-like treat), avocado sandwiches, beans, fried plantains, pâte rouge (made with corn flour and a tomato base), salad with cucumbers, carrots, tomatoes, and avocado, and igname pilée (pounded yams served with a spicy peanut sauce and wagashi- a cheese made in the north of Benin).  I also eat a lot of eggs, rice, bananas, baguettes, and pasta.  My family is pretty good about not making my food with a lot of hot peppers, but sometimes a lot of water is needed to stand it!

I think it’s amazing how fast you get accustomed to your surroundings.  I can’t believe I’ve only been here for almost four weeks!  The whole experience so far has been an adventure with lots of interesting detours along the way. They have all contributed to my progress in getting accustomed to life in Benin.  I feel the slow but steady progress I am making and can’t wait until I am ready to do it all on my own at post (where I will be placed for two years.)

Some observations so far:

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So many things are plus petite here than in the states. For example, cows are short and petite; pigs, chickens, and sheep are also smaller.  Even the vegetables are petite.  They use petite hot peppers in just about every meal. 
Along with that, there are small potatoes, small bananas, small apples, and small pineapples. Everything is small and cute here! Perfect when you are just buying for one!

·         It’s humbling to have a 5 year old help you wash your clothes and your dishes.

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One must eat only with the right hand here (I’m left-handed so this took some practice). Eating with your right hand is not as bad as it sounds. However, it’s hard for anyone to use your hand when eating really hot food with no utensils (such as pâte).

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  Expressions such as “Tu es lá?” (Are you there?), “Tu as fait un peu?” (Have you done a little?) and “Bonne assis!” (good sitting!) make me laugh, but they are used all of the time. They are direct translations from local language into French, so at first they don’t seem to make much sense.

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  I haven’t had to use a latrine yet! (Let’s see how long that will last.)

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Riding a zemidjan is fun despite the small number of paved roads in Benin.

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The palm tree has many uses (palm fruit, palm oil, leaves to make broom, fans, and mats, and one part is used as flint to start fires)

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They like to name their stores and boutiques with religious phrases such as Alpha and Omega, Glory to God, God is good, Grace, or my favorite so far Bravo Jesus (all in French) and then the type of store it is such as a hair dresser or cafeteria.  

I have hopefully given a general overview of what life is like so far in Benin and there is much more to come. I hope everyone at home is doing well and enjoying summer!  Peace!

What Just Happened?

Hello Friends and Family!

I left for Benin via Philadelphia on June 29th. I finally arrived on July 2nd.  As you can imagine this was a long journey and I am still adjusting to the time difference.  We are all staying at the same compound for the first week and will be splitting up into host families soon. There are 54 of us trainees. We all met up in Philadelphia for “staging” which included getting a yellow fever vaccine, meeting each other, and getting familiar with the Peace Corps and various policies (again).  It was nice to be back in good old PA!  During our travel here, I kept reminding myself “Je vais au Benin” (I am going to Benin).  It was hard to believe it was actually happening, plus I was so tired and therefore probably a little delirious.

We’ve mostly been busying ourselves with paperwork, lectures, interviews and demonstrations each day. We have so much to learn!  We’ve picked out our mountain bikes and practiced riding the moto bikes as well. 
        
It’s rainy season here right now, which means it’s humid, pretty warm, and rains every so often.  They are slowly getting us accustomed to the food here, so we’ve been eating European-style food mostly.  Baguettes at every meal, pasta, salad Niçoise, oranges, apples, bananas, and various cooked vegetables (plus beef, fish, and hot dogs for the meat eaters.)  Everyone we’ve met so far has been welcoming, patient with us, and glad to see us.

I've really appreciated your prayers and kind words these past few months while I've been preparing. It is so nice to know people are rooting for me! From now on it will be intensive French training just about every day. Wish me luck!