Operation Noel, Aplahoue 2012

January 2013

Around Christmastime 2011, I noticed an Operation Christmas Child shoe box in my supervisor’s house that was sitting in the corner of his living room. Operation Christmas Child is a program through Samaritan’s Purse, a Christian organization that sends shoe boxes filled with gifts to children in developing countries. Churches in the US fill them up and package then for shipping. I asked him about it and then he asked me if there was a way we could have boxes delivered to Aplahoue in 2012. I told him I would see what I could do. After talking to people at Samaritan’s Purse and the Peace Corps staff, I didn’t have any luck getting a hold of anyone. So, we came up with a plan B.

After talking with my parents, we decided to see if we could put together our own form of Operation Christmas Child for orphans and handicapped children in the district of Aplahoue (like a county). I guess one could call it Operation Noel, Aplahoue 2012.  We put together of list of items to include for the gifts and started seeing how we could get them sent. Graciously, the mission committee at our church (Trabuco Presbyterian Church) said they could donate about fifty gifts and spread the word to complement them. People from the church came through with all the rest of the items. Other people chipped in to cover the shipping costs.  Eight, large, flat-rate boxes were shipped to Benin in mid-October and arrived a mere three weeks later- a record speed!  My parents brought me the gifts for about fifty kids with them to Paris, where we met for vacation in August.   

In the months leading up to the event, my supervisor, who is the director of the county social center, got to work. Since we knew the gifts were coming, he wanted to make an event out of it. It was a great example of collaboration with everyone doing their part. We started making of list of what would end up to be 200 children, ages 3-16 who would receive gifts. I made visits to some of their houses to get a feel for their situations and learn their stories, which I will describe below.

 Benedicte Degbe (6 years old): has mild cerebral palsy (not officially diagnosed), had meningitis/seizures as   an infant, and now comes to the social center for “therapy.”

Gerard/Geraldine (9 year old twins): Mother died during child birth (hemorrhage), father abandoned them and has no contact with them, live with grandparents.

Sylvain Sodokin, (16 years old): Both parents died (when he was 2 and then 9 years old), only child, lives with his older cousin and his 2 wives who take care of 8 kids, is in his last year of primary school at 16 years old either because he started school late or has had to retake classes.

Mivode Soglahoun (11 years old): Lives with her widowed aunt and 4 other kids, during summer break she resells things at the market.

A couple of months ago, when my supervisor was still trying to figure out how to sponsor the event, we met a man who runs an NGO out of Cotonou. They visit towns in southern Benin and bring a Christmas party for orphans.  The timing was perfect and was yet another instance of collaboration.  The organization would contribute Santa Claus (Papa Noël) and the police escort. We were still in need of other sponsors to rent tents, chairs, DJ, sound system, food, and drinks. We also sent out letters to people in the community asking for their help, but didn’t receive much this way.

Most things for events in this country happen at the last minute. Less than a week before the event was scheduled, the date was changed, for the second time. Plan Benin, an American NGO that has a large presence in Benin decided to help us out as well. Because of their help, we were able to give more gifts (about 100 more!), serve the kids lunch, and pay for the sound system. Throughout the week before, the local Japanese volunteer and I organized the gifts by gender and age. It was a lot of fun seeing all of the wonderful things everyone sent for the kids.  Some items included toy cars, balls, notebooks, crayons, toothbrushes, combs, nail polish, flip flops, stuffed animals, jewelry, clothes, backpacks, sports equipment, and candy. Plan Benin also donated a t-shirt and children’s books about children’s rights to every child.

Finally, December 24^th came and the festivities began. Obviously, there was a lot of running around mainly by my supervisor to make sure things were being set up.  There was also a lot of waiting around. The NGO that was bringing Santa had another event a few hours away that morning and didn’t show up until late afternoon. We held the event at a nearby orphanage called Village of Hope that also has a primary school on its grounds. The children arrived early, all dressed up and ready for Santa. Unfortunately, they just had to sit and wait. After the chairs and tents were set up, the DJ kept them company with music and some kids danced. Eventually, lunch was served (Spanish-style rice with fish) and everyone got a soda. Important people started showing up such as the local district/county officials, a TV station, and finally the mayor.  In any event such as this one, you cannot begin until all of the important people show up, even if that means they are hours late.

Everyone waiting for Santa to arrive

When Santa “Papa Noël” arrived, he was escorted in by Santa’s helpers. All of the kids looked surprised and excited to see this strange man walking in.  Apparently Santa can only be a white man because the costume covers up his skin.  Santa wears a mask, latex gloves, and rubber boots; not the most comforting image for children in my opinion. Once he was seated, the ceremony was kicked off with a group of professional dancers.  Then a traditional welcome dance was performed by the kids that live at the Village of Hope.  Typical speeches describing the reason for the event, its sponsors, thanks, and welcome were given by the mayor, Plan Benin, the Christmas NGO, and then me. It was no easy feat to speak in French to everyone present in addition to everyone watching on TV, so I made it short and sweet, ending with “bonne fête” (have a good party), and “akpe nomi lo” (thank you in Adja).

With the help of two other Peace Corps Volunteers, one Japanese volunteer, Santa’s helpers, Santa, and the social center staff, we started distributing gifts. There were children present that were not on our list, so we had to be careful when handing out the gifts.  When a name was called, a Santa’s helper picked a gift according to their gender and age, handed it to Santa, who then handed it to the child. As far as I could tell, this worked out well, and at the end we had leftover gifts. The mayor also gave every child 500 FCFA (about 1$) with the idea that they could buy something special for dinner that night.     

Santa and Santa's helpers giving out presents

Overall, Operation Noël, Aplahoue 2012 was a success. With any luck, this event can continue in the years to come. Thank you to everyone who donated gifts, helped us get everything to Benin, or kept us in your thoughts and prayers. Thanks for sending your Christmas cheer! Best wishes for 2013 everyone! 

A participant and her gifts 

Things I’m thankful for this year:

Thanksgiving feast in Kandi

Peace Corps Volunteers: For being there when I want to speak to a fellow American, to share stories and experiences with. For being trustworthy, easy-going, and good listeners. For being my travel buddies, work partners, my family during holidays and celebrations, and my go-to group of people when I have a question about just about anything. For cooking a delicious Thanksgiving dinner that was just as good as being in America. We had turkey, mashed potatoes, cranberry sauce, green beans, salad, stuffing, deviled eggs, vegetable pot pie, pumpkin and apple pie. Thanks to people who visited Benin or had food sent from America, and to those who picked up ingredients in larger towns in Benin, we ate very well!

Workstations: For providing electricity, internet, showers, ovens, and refrigerators to volunteers throughout the country. For giving us a place to see other volunteers to share resources and have meetings.

Work partners: For being on time. For being helpful and surprising me by going beyond my expectations. I am thankful any time this happens because it could just as easily go the other way (like arriving late or not at all!)

My house: For not being infested with rodents or insects or at least for a sealed ceiling that doesn't let the rodents in; for no break-ins; for a roof that prevents water from entering; for a latrine all to myself; for my painted walls and decorations that remind me of home.

My health and safety: For not being in any accidents or falling gravely ill.

·        Talking to my parents every Sunday: For their weekly phone calls that fill me in on life in America and allow me to explain just what the heck I do in Benin.

Electricity: For my ability to turn on lights, charge my electronics, and cool off with my fan; for my internet key that has been reliable; for the phone network that allows me to talk to other volunteers for as long as I want for one fee per month.

Food: For my access to protein sources (eggs, tofu, peanut butter, fish, powdered milk); for fruits and vegetables (sometimes); for foods sent from home; for foods I can bake/cook that remind me of home.

Books/Movies/TV shows: For the impressive libraries each workstation has that allows me to read books on any topic of my choosing; for the just as impressive amount of movies and TV shows that are shared among volunteers that keep me entertained when I want a few minutes away from Benin.

YOU!: For reading my blog and supporting me J    

Empowering Girls

Benin doesn't rank very high in women's equality issues which include jobs, health care, and education. In fact, according to the 2012 Global Gender Gap Report, Benin ranks #117 out of 135 countries. With that being said, Peace Corps Benin along with many other Peace Corps countries, works with these complex issues with a variety of programs. The Gender and Development program, or GAD, has a committee that represents a number of programs run by volunteers throughout the year. These include boys and girls camp resources, small grants for projects relating to gender and development, "Take Our Daughters To Work" weekend, Summer Internship Program, and the Scholarship Girls Program.

This year, I am the Scholarship Girls Program Coordinator. This program allows for volunteers to work with their local secondary schools to choose one girl who will receive a scholarship for her school fees and school supplies. The recipients are required to stay in contact with the volunteer during the year, fill out the necessary forms, and complete a community project. Volunteers are encouraged to tutor and mentor the students to motivate them, provide support, and be a role model. Traditionally in Benin, if a family only has enough money to send one child to school, they will send a boy over a girl. The government is working hard to change this by waiving the school fees for girls up to the equivalent of tenth grade. Each year for the past few years, they have been expanding the program to include more grade levels.  In addition to the government fees, each school has it's own fees. Outside of the fees, students need a school uniform, a gym uniform, notebooks, workbooks, and other school supplies. This can add up to a lot of money for a family, multiplied by sometimes many children.

Being involved in this program in my first few months at post last year helped me get to know my community and understand the education system in Benin. I got to know my girl and met with her one on one. This was a unique experience for both of us. At times communication was difficult as was finding time to meet, but by the end of the year I noticed that Delphine had more confidence, and she passed her classes and the national exam needed to go on to the second cycle of secondary school. For her project, she decided to talk with villages about the importance of sending girls to school. After we met to go over the presentation, she practiced and presented on her own to two different villages. I was impressed with her public speaking skills and the positive response she received from the audiences. Most girls I meet here are very shy and do not enjoy speaking in front of groups of people. Seeing her in the front of a crowd and speaking with authority gave me hope for her future and girls like her. I learned that it doesn't take but a little nudge in the right direction and some encouragement to make a difference in someone's life. My student for this school year is a very sweet girl, and we are getting along well already. We bought all of her school supplies in the market together, and all that's left is to order a chalk board that she can use to study at home. I got excited for her while we were doing our "back to school shopping" just like I used to do as a student. She's equipped and ready for an exciting school year that I have the pleasure to accompany her on.

Delphine giving a presentation in a village

First Vacation: Paris!

Well, everyone I finally did it. I left Benin for the first time in thirteen months in August. The world really does still exist outside of Benin! I took my first vacation to Paris, (of all of the beautiful places) with my parents for ten days. We couldn’t have chosen a better place or a better time. It was amazing (which probably had nothing to do with the fact that I was coming directly from a developing country)! I had been counting down to this trip for months, and the time had finally come. I was so ready!

My first stop was Brussels for a layover. I took in my surroundings slowly, appreciating the carpet, the clean bathrooms with automatic faucets, the smoothie bar, and the departures and arrivals screens, displaying up-to-date information. Then I sat down and enjoyed a real cup of coffee with bread and cheese that was left over from my first flight.

Eiffel Tower and Alexander III Bridge

When I arrived in Paris, I got my baggage and then saw my parents waiting for me. We ran (in slow motion) towards each other and embraced. No really, it was quite precious, smile. Then, we proceeded to navigate a train and multiple metro cars with our rolling suitcases to our hotel (with super-fast Wi-Fi!)  

We spent the next ten days exploring Paris and making a few day trips to nearby towns. We saw churches, all with their unique features, museums, parks, looked out over the city during the day and at night, took tours by bike, bus, and boat, ate delicious food for every meal, shopped, navigated the city by foot and my metro, and chatted at cafes. I reveled at the architecture of the buildings, pondered at the nonsensicality of Versailles, smelled the falling leaves, listened to Parisian French (much different from the accents in West Africa), and savored truffle cream, nutella, cheese, strawberries, crepes, and gelato. I also made a point of using the Laundromat to have my clothes cleaned by a machine!

Rouen

I was surprised to see a great deal of West Africans in Paris. During our first metro ride through the city, I recognized their traditional outfits and vibrant fabrics instantly. On this particular day it was a Sunday, so everyone was in their Sunday best for church! On one of my last nights, we walked around a neighborhood where many West Africans live. There was a market starting to pack up for the night with women sitting on the side walk selling small eggplants, smoked fish, and boiled corn (yelling out “maïs chaud!” or “hot corn!”). Hair dresser shops lined the streets with women getting weaves, and there were even shops selling West African fabrics. It was Little West Africa!

Dahomey Kingdom throne

We visited the Branly museum which has artifacts from Asia, Africa, and South America.  We went specifically to look at the items from Africa, and sure enough, they had an exhibit from Benin.  They were items from the Royal Dahomey kingdom in Abomey (Dahomey was the name before it was changed to Benin). It was great to see Benin in the spot light.

The trip was incredible for many reasons, not the least of which was being able to spend so much time with my parents. My dad was our fantastic tour guide, navigating us through the city on foot, by train, or with the metro. Mom was our time keeper, making sure we didn't dilly dally too much and keeping us on schedule. She was also our planner, fitting in everything we wanted to do at just the right times. I was just along for the ride, trying to soak in as much as I could on our short stay together. We had some “firsts” for this family vacation. It was our first international vacation and our first one without Grace. But, it was successful all around! Sadly, the trip did eventually come to an end and I made my way back to Benin. After a few days of adjusting I’m back and ready to finish out my service.  

I appreciate everyone’s support, encouragement, and prayers!

Boys and Girls Camps

During the month of July I participated in two of the numerous camps that volunteers all over the country put on during the summer months.  This year there were day camps, overnight camps, camps for boys, camps for girls, both big and small. They are in my opinion one of the most successful projects that volunteers do during their Peace Corps service. We can cram all of the important thing we want kids to learn and do into one week!

The first camp was for girls ages 11-16 (grades 6-8) in the capital of Porto Novo. It is called Camp GLOW  (Girls Leading Our World). Volunteers from all over southern Benin participated and brought girls to attend. We chose girls based on their grades, our impressions of if they would be active participants, and their availability.  We also invited “tutrices” or camp counselors. These were mostly working women from volunteers’ communities that stayed with the girls and sometimes led sessions. We rented out part of a Christian conference center that included a kitchen, dorm rooms, and a room to hold our sessions. The week was full of activities such as a field trip to the old royal palace of Porto Novo, soccer games, a movie night, a necklace-making session and lots of presentations. People from the community were invited to speak about their careers, adolescence, and women and children’s rights. Volunteers also presented on topics such as budgeting, malaria, and study skills.  

The second camp was for boys ages 11-16 in the southern, historic city of Ouidah. It was the first boys camp in southern Benin and it was very successful. We called it Camp GRACE (respectful boys learning how to create equality in French). It was very similar to the girls camp except that we had male “tuteurs” as counselors. We stayed on the campus of a private girls school with separate facilities for sleeping and holding activities. The field trips included a guide-led slave route tour where the boys learned about how slaves went from being sold to being put onto the slave ships at the Point of No Return. They also visited the voodoo Temple of the Pythons and everyone wore a python around their neck.  There were two art sessions, one music lesson, and a soccer tournament. They learned about sexual harassment, the roles of men and women, HIV/AIDS, nutrition and food security, and career planning to name a few of the topics.

At both of the camps, the students were split up into teams. Throughout the week they earned points based on good behavior, cleaning up after themselves, and participation. At the end of the week, the top two teams got prizes. This technique really helped keep them under control! On the last night of the camps, each team performed skits based on one of the topics they learned about during the week. This was a great way for us as volunteers to see what they learned and to wrap up the week. It was very impressive to see what they came up with! Both of the weeks were also full of songs and games. We taught them songs in English and French, Simon Says, Duck Duck Goose, and countless other fun ways to pass the time. 

We could tell everyone had a good time because they all said they wanted to come back next year. The opportunity to go to camp away from home was a big deal for many of the kids. When I talked with parents before and after the camp, they expressed their gratitude to me over and over (and I’m sure they were also glad to get their kids back in one piece!) During the summer months, most kids hang around at home, find some form of work, or take summer classes. We volunteers hope that camp was the highlight of their summer this year! Although we brought our American ideas of camp to Benin, kids are the same no matter what continent you’re on. What kid wouldn’t enjoy a week away from home to have all of the fun that we did? I can't write a post about these camps without mentioning that they aren't possible without the support from friends and family back in the states. The community makes a 25% contribution and the rest is you! Thank you to everyone who helped out this year and stayed tuned for information about 2013!

Foods in Benin from A-Z

A: Atassi- A rice and bean dish served with an oily, concentrated tomato sauce called dja. Made by boiling beans and then at a certain point adding rice to the same pot.  Eaten for breakfast or lunch with a boiled egg, fried fish, or fried local cheese. 

B: Bouille- Porridge  usually made from corn in the south but can also be made from millet or sorghum.  Sweetened with sugar and eaten for breakfast or as a snack with roasted peanuts or some form of fried dough.

C: Condiments- Anything added to a sauce that adds flavor. The most popular condiments are garlic, ginger, black pepper, local mustard, chicken bouillon cube, salt, bay leaf, hot pepper, and onion.

D: Dokon (“doko”) - A classic fried dough ball eaten by itself or with bouille. Made with white flour, yeast, salt, and sugar.

E : Ekuli- The word in Adja for a type of legume that is boiled and then flavored with oil, hot peppers, and onions. It is served with gari or rice. Other beans such as black-eyed peas, red beans, and round chick peas are prepared and served in the same way.

F : FanMilk- a brand of ice cream, yogurt, and fruit-flavored frozen treats. Sold on the street from coolers on bikes or carts. Flavors include chocolate, vanilla, orange, and cocktail.

G : Gari- Locally made, course cassava (manioc) flour. Made from peeled and grated cassava tubers, then pressed, left to ferment, dried and sifted. Eaten with water and sugar as a snack with roasted peanuts or kluie kluie (see below). Also made into a form of pâte called piron.

H: Hot pepper- Small red peppers added fresh, dried, or in powder form in just about every savory Beninese dish. If fresh or dried, the peppers are ground into a paste with water with a grinding stone and then added to sauces.

I: Igname pilé- A popular dish in northern and central Benin made from pounded African yams. The yams are boiled and then pounded in a large mortar by multiple people until it is similar to the consistency of dense, sticky mashed potatoes. Eaten with one’s hands and served with peanut, melon seed, or palm nut sauce and either cheese, meat, or fish. 

J: Jus- Means “juice” or “gravy” in French. A simple accompaniment for rice, couscous, and other starches made from cooked onions and tomatoes. Flavored with chicken bouillon cube, salt, and hot pepper.

K: Kluie Kluie- Fried peanut butter snacks served with gari and bouille. Roasted peanuts are made into a paste which is then worked by hand until it resembles peanut butter. Then some corn flour is added and the dough is rolled into either sticks or rounds and then fried.

L: Légume- Represents any leafy green that is cooked and made into sauce. Some are bitter, some become slimy, and others are more like spinach. The leaves are washed and boiled, then cut up and cooked with condiments.

M: Mango – There are two types found in Benin. One is small and very stringy and the other is large and grafted, like the ones sold in the United States. When in season they are sold everywhere very cheaply. Children can be seen climbing trees in search of ripe fruit, and mango pits and scattered all over the ground.

N : Nescafé- The main type of coffee sold in Benin. It comes in small cans in instant form. It is served in cafeterias with lots of sweetened condensed milk. 

O : Omelette- A dish served for breakfast or dinner mostly at cafeterias. Made with onions, hot peppers, and tomatoes and fried. Can be eaten with a baguette as a sandwich or with spaghetti and a spicy tomato sauce.

P : Pâte- By far the most popular dish in Benin. Corn flour is mixed with water, then boiled, stirred and mixed with more corn flour until thick and firm. Eaten with one’s hands and served with sauce plus fish, meat, or cheese any time of the day. Other forms include pâte rouge made with corn flour but with pureed tomatoes and condiments mixed in, and pâte noir made from dried yam flour.

Q : Quaker- A popular brand of oatmeal sold in Benin. If you want to buy oatmeal in the market it is called “Quaker” (with a French accent) no matter what brand they sell. Mostly eaten by foreigners or the upper class. 

R : Riz au gras- “Greasy rice”.  A rice dished made by adding oil, tomatoes, and condiments while with rice is cooking. Served mostly for special occasions. Vegetables such as carrots, cabbage, and peas can be added as well as fish, boiled eggs, meat, or cheese.

S : Sauce- An accompaniment to just about every dish. The most popular are tomato, melon seed, peanut, leafy greens (legume), okra, and palm nut.

T : Tomato- The most readily available and consumed vegetable in Benin.  They are about the size of the cherry or grape tomatoes in the states. To make sauce, they are crushed and pureed with a grinding stone before being added.

U : Upside-down cake- A cake that is very easy to make in Benin with pineapple. Delicious!

V : Vegetables- The most common vegetables you can find in marchés are leafy greens, tomatoes, and okra. Some marchés also sell vegetables such as carrots, lettuce, cucumber, eggplant, cabbage, green beans, and green peppers. However these are much more expensive and harder to find.

W : Wagashi-Cheese made locally by a group of people called the Fulani, or Peuhl in French. They raise cattle for milk and cheese. More prevalent in northern Benin.  It is served cut up and fried. 

X: Xtra food- When buying produce in the marchés vendors will give a “cadeau” or gift of a few extra of whatever you are buying in hopes that you will come back and buy from her again.

Y: Yam frites- One of many fried snack foods sold in the early evening. Usually sold alongside fried sweet potatoes, plantains, and bean flour beignets with hot pepper and onion sauce.  

Z: Zaatar- A Middle Eastern spice mix. In Cotonou, there are many Lebanese restaurants that sprinkle it on their dishes that volunteers love to eat when they want a change from Beninese food.

Amour et Vie

One of my current projects that I’m most excited about is called Amour et Vie, (love and life). It’s a project run by an NGO called PSI that is based in the United States. The target group is young people who have either dropped out of school or have never attended. The idea is for young role models in the community to give health presentations to the target groups on topics such as HIV/AIDS, malaria, family planning, and diarrhea.  Once a Peace Corps Volunteer decides to be a part of the project, he or she puts together a local team of two young people (one boy, one girl from ages 15-24) called “Peer Educators”, one community advisor. Then a week-long training is held. Ours was June 3-10 in Bohicon (a large town in southern Benin).

Giving a practice presentation on hygiene

During the training, the Peer Educators learned everything from technical information, to how to be an animated presenter, to practicing what they learned around town. My team consists of one boy and one girl from the local secondary school (both around age 16), and a nurse’s aide.  The Peer Educators are the most important part of the team, because they are the ones that will be giving the presentations. My role is to supervise the team, help complete monthly reports, and offer support when needed. Throughout the week I watched as my team members got to know each other and work together.  The Peer Educators showed a lot of enthusiasm and confidence in the project.  PSI provided each team with all sorts of visual aids for the presentations they will be giving as well as t-shirts that we will wear. At the end of the training everyone received certificates of participation.  Being selected for this type of activity is very special for the team members, especially for the students.  

Demonstrating hand-washing

Each team is required to give at least two presentations per month. Groups that we can talk to include apprentices for hair dressers, tailors, and welders. We can also work with  zemidjan (taxi moto) drivers, and women’s groups. Before the team can give a presentation, a pre-test is given to assess the current knowledge of the group. To launch the project, each team will hold an opening ceremony. Important leaders in the community as well as the target groups will be invited. A representative of PSI will also be present to introduce the organization. The Peer Educators will give a small presentation to show the kinds of presentations they will be giving in the community.  Afterwards, they will present their three month action plan with the names of the groups they will be working with to PSI. As with any ceremony in Benin, there will be music and food!

I am looking forward to working with my team and watch them as they become more confident speaking in front of groups. The project seems well organized and lets the community (the Peer Educators and the community advisor) take the lead instead of me (the foreigner). The hope is that after one year, the project will continue without the volunteer.